Stepping into the realm of culinary adventure in the frozen wilderness of Antarctica, I, a seasoned chef, embarked on a journey that few have dared. The first glimpse of this pristine land is a revelation, a childhood dream materializing. The journey itself is an odyssey, spanning multiple flights and days, but the anticipation is worth every moment. My initial encounter with the British Antarctic Survey (BAS) was averted due to parenthood, but fate had other plans. Instead, I found myself cooking for Michelin-starred restaurants, hotels, and even a school, until I finally answered the call of the wild.
In 2016, I took a sabbatical and joined BAS as a chef for the summer. Five years later, I returned for the winter, and last year, I became the organization's full-time catering manager. It was time to embrace the adventure. Now, I oversee the catering across BAS's five Antarctic stations, where research flourishes and staff reside. Each year, I spend three months in this icy paradise, and the rest of the time, I work at BAS's headquarters in Cambridge.
The kitchen at our main hub, Rothera, is a bustling hub of activity during the summer. We begin each day with the aroma of freshly baked bread, churning out around 12kg of bread mix daily during peak season. Our menu offers breakfast, lunch, dinner, and the iconic 'smoko' at 10 am, a traditional Antarctic fry-up with bacon rolls, beans, sausages, tomatoes, and soups. The daily food intake is a hearty 5,000 calories, catering to the staff's extreme physical demands in the cold.
Our role is to run a canteen, not a Michelin-starred restaurant. There are no other dining options for miles, but we take pride in our meals. With a predominantly British staff, we serve up comfort foods like toad in the hole, shepherd's pie, fish and chips, curries, and a roast every Sunday. On Saturdays, we indulge in a restaurant-style experience, complete with tablecloths and candles, often with a themed menu.
The ingredients at our disposal are a unique challenge. The food arrives frozen, requiring thawing, which inevitably affects taste. While meat, fish, and dairy maintain their quality, fruits and vegetables may lose their texture and crunch. We must be meticulous in managing our supplies, with only one food delivery per year at Rothera. I order bacon and sausages by the tonne, filling walls with chopped tomatoes and tins of potatoes, and dry goods in shipping containers.
Our kitchen is a professional haven, with a stunning view of icebergs, sea, and mountains. The continent itself is stark, dominated by emperor penguins. However, the peninsula teems with wildlife, from various penguin species to seals and whales, and an array of birds like skuas, albatrosses, and petrels.
The cold is a stark reality, with temperatures reaching -40C on the ice shelf in winter. Upon joining BAS, you receive a kit bag with essential gear and training on survival in the cold. The key to survival is staying warm, dry, and nourished with high-fat, high-sugar foods while staying active.
Antarctica transforms your perspective. You realize, as the French philosopher Jean Bodin once said, that 'there is no wealth but in men.' The material things we crave often pale in comparison to the richness of human connection. Recycling, packaging, and shipping waste back home makes you acutely aware of the wastefulness of our rich western societies.
Reintegrating into the 'real world' can be challenging. You may question your place, wondering if you fit in. But being there reminds you of the privilege of your life. It's a constant reminder to savor every moment, for it is a precious gift.
